New Year, new blog!

As there has been a distinct lack of activity in regards to blogging and because I spent the Christmas period being nagged to update things, here it is!

Winter is now in full swing here in Esslingen as I start my last couple of months in this part of the world. I am sat looking out of my window and the snow is continuing to fall, a fact I am being updated on by the toddler next door who is attempting to help clear the footpath! It's a far cry from the weather during my last week here in 2012, much to the annoyance of my 'three kings' from Bath!

On my advice they had all arrived with walking boots and thick clothing, but there wasn't a single snowflake until we arrived at the airport on our return trip to Blighty! The warm clothes were certainly needed though, to wrap up against the cold and all three of them were definitely exposed to the charm of Germany at Christmas time! Glühwein was consumed and the markets of Esslingen, Stuttgart and Heidelberg were explored. I think that's what I enjoy most about German Christmas markets: each one has a different atmosphere to it. There was the incredibly busy Stuttgart market with everything from socks and pants to a new window cleaner: 100% guaranteed - no marks or stains! Esslingen with it's quaint Christmas market and bizarre medieval market and Heidelberg with more Glühwein, Stollen and Bratwurst huts than you can shake a stick at! Other than a nasty cold, which I was assured was actually a bad dose of 'man-flu', it was great to be able to share my little German world with nearly all of my best friends! They all agreed that it was a fantastic trip - certainly better than going to Copenhagen, for example!!

Work at school is still as crazy as ever. I have now managed to change from 4 days a week to 5, however from 16 down to 14 hours: only 2 hours over what I'm meant to do! In fact this week I did 17 hours, including a geography lesson to a year 6 group about Britain, all in German (something I'm sure I would've spent many a sleepless night worrying about, had it been in October!)

As my time here begins to expire, I really have to knuckle down with some work for my University study! Granted I have all year to write the 6,000 words, but seeing as I am now talking to myself and even dreaming in German, perhaps now is the best time! Writing about the motor industry while on holiday during the summer might not go down very well! So it is my mini New Year's resolution (that will at most last for 8 weeks!) to get on with my work and stop being a lazy sod!

Thankfully the people in Milan finally signed my contract, although I have the feeling they may be some of the most organised Italians ever, something that may not bode well for my frankly anal attention to time-management! As much as I am enjoying my time here, there is a part of me that is really looking forward to the challenge of working in an Italian press office, a language that I have only been learning for two years!

Autumn becomes wintery

I have been neglecting the blog lately, mainly because things have been progressing without anything meaningful to report! But I felt that I had to update it with some happenings and perhaps a small observation.

Autumn is closing to an end here in Esslingen. The autumnal colours of gold and red are still present in most of the trees, but there has been a noticeable drop in temperature. During the October half term I managed to get home for a week to see close friends and family and surprise an unsuspecting girlfriend! During my time back in Blighty, Stuttgart and the nearby area was covered in a blanket of snow; a phenomenon that I was assured is quite rare for this time of year! Unfortunately, since then the sun has decided to desert the region and the days are becoming shorter and colder.

But with the end of autumn comes the promise of little wooden huts, handmade decorations such as nutcrackers, stars and angels, brilliant little wooden 'smoking men' (incense - nothing stronger!), Glühwein and the sickly sweet smell of German Christmas markets. They are still (just about) an 'unknown' gem for British tourists and have to be one of the best ways to get even the grumpiest of Scrooges into the Christmas spirit! The Germans just don't do Humbug!

Sad though it may be, I'm already counting down the days until I have my trio of visitors, heading from Bath, to discover all that Germany has to offer in the Christmas break department! As a nation I feel that we are, all too often, quick to disregard the 'Vaterland' as a holiday destination, perhaps due to the history that goes with the country, this coupled with Britons' firm belief that Germans still behave as they did in the 1930s and 40s! The truth is that Christmas time in Germany can be one of the most magical places, particularly when the possibility of snow is far greater than back at home! All that needs to be added is... bring on the Christkindlmärkte!!

Willkommen im Autoland!

Contrary to the belief of maybe some people, I do actually have to do some university work while I am here! Because I am splitting the year between a teaching assistantship in Germany and a work placement in Italy, I have to write a 'special study'. This is a 6,000 word essay in a language of my choice about any relevant topic.

One of the main reasons for choosing Baden-Württemberg was because I wanted to write something about the influence that the automobile industry has had on the area. Now, young men or women who are interested in cars have either one interest, or two. All of them like to admire the beauty of such machines; each with his or her own view on what is good and what their dream car would be. Some like to know how everything works. They take stuff apart and put it back together again; always striving to understand 'why' something is needed. Among these types of people is my dad, forever tinkering away in the garage, repairing and replacing a forever growing list of things on his beloved, mid-life-crisis (no doubt I will receive a berating for that) 'investment' - an early 90s Porsche 911 (964).

For those that really know me, any attempt to fully explain the workings of a car would be pointless. In fact it is a family joke that if somebody asked me for a screwdriver, I would pass them a spanner! Nevertheless I remain fascinated by the idea of the car and it is because of this that I find myself (rather fortunately) in what is often known as the birthplace of the car.

On my doorstep are two of the best automotive museums in all of Germany and it wouldn't be right to research such a topic, without a visit to both!

The Mercedes museum (or Daimler-Benz Museum to locals) is a historical journey, from the first ideas of Karl Benz and Gottlieb Daimler, to the 21st century and Mercedes' production of greener cars. A ridiculously low entry fee of €4 (yet again) and I was discovering some brilliant pieces of mechanical engineering and automotive design. Rather than explain it, I thought it was best that you saw some highlights for yourself! 

 

The museum tour was finished with a trip to the shop, where I bought a brilliant book to help me with my studies and shocked myself silly at the price of some of the die cast models!

After the experience of the Mercedes museum, it was time to rub salt into the wounds of my dad! He has long expressed a desire to visit the Porsche Museum in Stuttgart and that was exactly where I found myself on a wet and windy day last Friday. The museum resembled more of a space ship than the resting place for some motoring greats! Once again a student entry fee got me into the exhibition for, more or less, nothing. As I walked through the history of Porsche, moving from one important model to the next, I could imagine my dad's parrot becoming more and more ill! Once again, below is a collection of some of my highlights.

Unlike the Mercedes museum, which is interesting for everyone, the Porsche museum was definitely a place for enthusiasts and admirers. Rather than tracking exactly what the company had done for the industry, the collection in Porscheplatz showed the development of the cars, from Ferdinand Porsche's famous Volkswagen to the modern day 997.

Doubtless is it to say that both museum trips had the desired effect and research is going along smoothly! As for my dad, well the hope is that he will come and visit me in February, so he will have his opportunity. Perhaps if I can organise a factory tour early enough, I might even get to sit on the drivers' side of the 964! I am quite confident that only when hell freezes over, can I even suggest it!

An interesting birthday

Tuesday, 16th October 2012 marked 22 years since I was born. I'm fairly sure that neither of my parents, should they have been asked 22 years ago, would have thought that I would be spending it on my own, in another country. The chances of either of them saying that I would spend the majority of the day down an iron ore mine in Baden Württemberg, is also pretty much zero!

But this was what my 22nd birthday had in store for me as I woke up to a frosty Tuesday morning, here in Esslingen. I was the last minute replacement on a school trip for the teacher who I'm staying with. She is unfortunately suffering with a trapped nerve in her back (obviously the last place you want to be under those circumstances, is in a mine!) I should of course point out that it is no longer a working mine, I did not spend my birthday personally mining for iron ore!

The major difference I have found between English and German schools is the 'lack' of discipline shown by teachers here in Germany. Perhaps this is because German kids aren't as much of a pain in the arse as the English ones, who knows? Anyway, the infamous German organisation and precision in the 5 minute walk to the train station had definitely disappeared! This continued on the train, with basic checks to make sure all of the children were on the train and the decision to leave a bunch of 10-11 year olds in a carriage, without an adult (perhaps our kids are wrapped up in too much cotton wool!) An hour later after some half-hearted Latin revision and an explanation of local cuisine (the kids were joined by the ticket inspector and my colleague this time) we arrived in Wasseralfingen and began a 15 minute walk up to the 'Tiefer Stollen' iron ore mine.

Once we had arrived and paid, all pupils and teachers were provided with the necessary attire for entering the mine. We were supplied with fetching hard hats and what I can only describe as the cape from a toddler's superman outfit! Apparently this would be sufficient to stop anything from covering me. Surprisingly enough the only places where water dripped on me, were not covered by my miniature cape! But our lovely outfits were vastly improved when the train arrived and happily trundled along, transporting us into the mine.

Now, I am not a very tall person, nor am I short, but had it not been for some last minute warnings, I could possibly have lost my lovely white hard hat forever! The ceiling along the route that the train took was so low that I seriously considered using the 'brace' position. Once we had arrived, our tour began. This was very interesting for the adults, however less so for the children who either did not listen, did not understand or found the funny shaped rock on the other side of the chamber far too interesting! Our poor guide tried her utmost, but without a child-specific tour, she stood no chance!

When we had finally resurfaced, the group began a longer walk to the nearby town of Aalen, where we would get the train back to Stuttgart. Us three teachers enjoyed our walk in the sunshine, crisp air and brilliant blue sky, but it was undoubtedly a  low point for the kids - and I thought the Germans invented 'Wanderlust'!

The return journey was rather uneventful, except for once again a distinct lack of German efficiency with the trains at Bad Canstatt in Stuttgart (it was apparently so poor that one teacher felt the need to apologise to me on behalf of the country!) Back in Esslingen I counted all 29 members of class 6B and (with a loud sigh) was free once again.

My birthday continued like almost any other day, except for Skype calls back to the UK, which were slightly different, including some present opening via the world wide web! The big surprise for me was being given two presents and some homemade 'biscotti' from my 'German' family. These presents turned out to be a book of famous German paintings and photographs and a box of 'fancy' jaffa cakes.

Unsurprisingly neither the jaffa cakes, nor the biscotti lasted very long!

Stuttgart isn't all about the 'Cannstatter Wasen'!

Last weekend a few of us English language assistants decided to meet up in Stuttgart and discover the local Volksfest called the 'Cannstatter Wasen'. Unfortunately the day did not go completely to plan because a train derailment severely hampered many people's journeys into the city. Eventually, after a constantly changing plan was scrapped, a few of us crammed (quite literally) onto an underground train and made it to the festival, where our number was doubled.

The 'Wasen' was certainly an eye-opener, but to say that it was the epitome of German culture would be like saying that morris dancing is the epitome of English culture! I suddenly understood why most people I'd met in Munich decided to stay away when Oktoberfest was in full swing. The festival was crammed full of massive, temporary 'beer halls', ridiculous-looking rides and countless people in Lederhosen and Dirndls (a tradition that I must add is actually Bavarian and Tirolian and as the family strongly pointed out to me, has nothing to do with Baden-Württemberg!)

Now, Germans like the odd beer, that will come as no surprise! But this was quite incredible and, to my eyes at least, it had clearly been blown out of all proportions. What had once started as a celebration of local agriculture is now an excuse for people to get as drunk as possible and spend extortionate amounts of money! It's like the mop on drugs, with a load of beer thrown in, just for good measure!

Nonetheless I had a good day and it was nice to hear some English voices - perhaps being out of Blighty has brought out that British love of moaning at everything possible! Anyway I was itching to get back on the train and discover some more of Stuttgart for myself. So with some German bureaucracy dealt with (amazingly hassle-free and in record time I might add) I hopped back on the S-Bahn to spend the day as a proper tourist!

Königsstraße was similar to your average UK shopping street, except there are about half a dozen H&Ms! I did find out though that it claims to be the longest pedestrian street in the whole of Germany... what a privilege that is for the city! The street eventually opened out onto the incredible Schlossplatz. I could tell you more but, then again, a picture is worth a thousand words!

Not bah, eh! I continued my little trip, ticking off buildings in my book (thanks go to Becky for the guide book included in my 'survival pack'!) and happy snapping away! Beforehand I was thinking that nowhere in Germany could come close to Munich and I am, to date, correct. But I was pleasantly surprised at how close Stuttgart came! Perhaps a favourite was the Staatstheater (where in fact the youngest daughter works) and the surrounding area.

A bite of lunch later and I decided to head over to the Staatsgalerie and, provided it wasn't too busy or expensive, spend my time having a look around. The new section of the building was designed by British architect James Stirling and it was an eclectic mix of sandstone and brightly coloured steel... each to his own! On arrival the gallery was empty and I even managed to get in as a student by casually showing my Bath library card (confidence is everything!)

Now a gallery that houses works by Picasso, Monet, Jackson Pollock, Warhol, Rothko, Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moholy-Nagy (non-artistic people might get lost - for this I can only apologise!) you would think it would cost a fair amount, even if you do get a student discount. €4!! I had to ask again, just to make sure I hadn't misheard! €4, leave you bag in the locker and enjoy the gallery. Crazy! I'm pretty sure my lunch cost more from one of the bakers on Königstraße!

After the incredible collection at the gallery I was feeling the need to get back to the house and sit in the sunny garden with a nice cup of tea. I was pretty happy with my day of touristing and as the train passed by the 'Wasen' I was particularly glad to have discovered more of Stuttgart.

People are all too often quick to stereotype Germany as a nation of beer drinking, Lederhosen wearing, sausage eating, prolific penalty takers. Of course once you have been here you realise that it's not all true (some of them are rubbish at penalties!) If people want amazing art or architecture they often look to Italy, France or Spain, and with good reason. But in Stuttgart (and indeed Germany as a whole) you can find some superb churches, palaces, museums, galleries - and, of course, proper beer halls!

A different 'Land' brings a different experience

Before starting at Bath, I took a year out and lived in Munich for 8 or so months. I had just turned 19 and everything was a bit scary, but I got on with it and in the end had a great time. I really wanted to improve my German, but unfortunately most people's first question was 'where do you come from?' This was followed by 'from England' and the rest of the conversation was conducted in English, no matter how hard I begged to change back to German. I was worried that when I moved back for these 5 months the same thing would happen again!

I have now been in Esslingen for 4 days and the only time that I have spoken in my mother tongue has been in English lessons. The school is incredibly friendly, every teacher seems happy to see an English language assistant and have agreed (more or less) that my German is very good - here's hoping I don't prove them wrong!

I'm currently staying with one of the teacher's and the rest of her family, who have welcomed me into their amazing house with open arms. So long as there are no problems, I am hoping to stay here until the end of February! My little attic room is looking quite homely already!

The highlights so far have been arriving and (about an hour and a half later) putting on some borrowed indoor shoes to play football with the teachers (my first time in about 3 or 4 years! My legs are still fairly sore!) After that I was taken back to the staff room where some beers were casually handed out - now I know exactly what went on in our school staff room!! 

Afterwards I found myself in an all-Italian restaurant that spoke little German. My Head of English decided that he should give the Italian a go, but ended up speaking a mixture of the two languages - is that Deutalienisch or Tedeliano? Who knows, but the poor waitress was certainly struggling!

All I can say is that what I have experienced in Baden Württemberg is completely different to Munich. I've found that what was waiting for me, in this stereotypical German toy town, just South of Stuttgart, is worth every 6.15 wake-up call!

Welcome, Wilkommen, Benvenuto

Hi all, this blog has many different roles. 

Firstly it allows those at home to read about how I'm getting on (it also hopefully means I don't have to keep repeating myself on the phone!) 

Secondly it acts as a tool for me to remember exactly what I have done, as I'm often prone to forgetting! 

And last, but by no means least, it means that I hopefully will be able to remember some English and not embarrass myself when I'm teaching!