The 'Wasen' was certainly an eye-opener, but to say that it was the epitome of German culture would be like saying that morris dancing is the epitome of English culture! I suddenly understood why most people I'd met in Munich decided to stay away when Oktoberfest was in full swing. The festival was crammed full of massive, temporary 'beer halls', ridiculous-looking rides and countless people in Lederhosen and Dirndls (a tradition that I must add is actually Bavarian and Tirolian and as the family strongly pointed out to me, has nothing to do with Baden-Württemberg!)
Now, Germans like the odd beer, that will come as no surprise! But this was quite incredible and, to my eyes at least, it had clearly been blown out of all proportions. What had once started as a celebration of local agriculture is now an excuse for people to get as drunk as possible and spend extortionate amounts of money! It's like the mop on drugs, with a load of beer thrown in, just for good measure!
Nonetheless I had a good day and it was nice to hear some English voices - perhaps being out of Blighty has brought out that British love of moaning at everything possible! Anyway I was itching to get back on the train and discover some more of Stuttgart for myself. So with some German bureaucracy dealt with (amazingly hassle-free and in record time I might add) I hopped back on the S-Bahn to spend the day as a proper tourist!
Königsstraße was similar to your average UK shopping street, except there are about half a dozen H&Ms! I did find out though that it claims to be the longest pedestrian street in the whole of Germany... what a privilege that is for the city! The street eventually opened out onto the incredible Schlossplatz. I could tell you more but, then again, a picture is worth a thousand words!
Not bah, eh! I continued my little trip, ticking off buildings in my book (thanks go to Becky for the guide book included in my 'survival pack'!) and happy snapping away! Beforehand I was thinking that nowhere in Germany could come close to Munich and I am, to date, correct. But I was pleasantly surprised at how close Stuttgart came! Perhaps a favourite was the Staatstheater (where in fact the youngest daughter works) and the surrounding area.
A bite of lunch later and I decided to head over to the Staatsgalerie and, provided it wasn't too busy or expensive, spend my time having a look around. The new section of the building was designed by British architect James Stirling and it was an eclectic mix of sandstone and brightly coloured steel... each to his own! On arrival the gallery was empty and I even managed to get in as a student by casually showing my Bath library card (confidence is everything!)
Now a gallery that houses works by Picasso, Monet, Jackson Pollock, Warhol, Rothko, Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moholy-Nagy (non-artistic people might get lost - for this I can only apologise!) you would think it would cost a fair amount, even if you do get a student discount. €4!! I had to ask again, just to make sure I hadn't misheard! €4, leave you bag in the locker and enjoy the gallery. Crazy! I'm pretty sure my lunch cost more from one of the bakers on Königstraße!
After the incredible collection at the gallery I was feeling the need to get back to the house and sit in the sunny garden with a nice cup of tea. I was pretty happy with my day of touristing and as the train passed by the 'Wasen' I was particularly glad to have discovered more of Stuttgart.
People are all too often quick to stereotype Germany as a nation of beer drinking, Lederhosen wearing, sausage eating, prolific penalty takers. Of course once you have been here you realise that it's not all true (some of them are rubbish at penalties!) If people want amazing art or architecture they often look to Italy, France or Spain, and with good reason. But in Stuttgart (and indeed Germany as a whole) you can find some superb churches, palaces, museums, galleries - and, of course, proper beer halls!
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